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Automotive Traveler Magazine: Vol 3 Iss 1 Page 74

The southern side of the Alps stretches from the Brenner Pass on the Austrian-Italian border down to sunny Barbian in the Isarco Valley. South of Innsbruck, Austria and north of Venice, an area ceded to Italy following the First World War, a journey of delicious discovery awaits. Along the Isarco Gourmet Route travelers immerse themselves in the cuisine and culture of the Italian Südtirol.

The trip was made even better for me since I drove it seated at the wheel of a BMW 1 Series Convertible 123d.

Mediterranean and Central European cultural influences meet here in the beautiful Isarco Valley, which boasts a diverse landscape. Dotted with historical monuments and the medieval towns of Sterzing, Brixen, and Klausen, the area is also well known as the home of Eisacktaler wines.

Along the Isarco Gourmet Route, we found great friends and excellent meals presented by traditional restaurants, of which I can recommend quite a few.

Our route took us through the Brenner Pass, then south on the Brenner Road. The road makes its way through Gossensass and past the vaunted Henrik Ibsen spa.

The cemetery features an interesting place of worship: The Miners' Chapel, with a late-Gothic winged altar, is from the period of mining in Pflerschtal, an idyllic valley at the foot of Tribulaun Mountain that today offers hiking and skiing.

Our tour continued to the medieval town of Sterzing, also known by its Italian name Vipiteno. Traditionally Tyrolian, this important commercial center is charming and romantic. Its elegant main street features one of the prettiest town halls in the Südtirol.

Our first stop was the Restaurant Lilie, deservedly one of the best-known establishments in Sterzing. Five centuries have shaped the atmosphere at the restaurant and the Hotel Lilie, in continuous operation since it was established in 1461. Walking through the inn's heavy, vaulted, iron-enforced wood door, you understand why this property is today a protected example of medieval architecture.

Mediterranean cuisine inspires a first-class menu that promises tempting appetizers, fish and meat dishes with tasty sauces, and delicious desserts from its own bakery.

Hotel Restaurant Lilie, Neustadt 49, 39049 Vipiteno 001-39-0472-760063

Our journey to the south next passed the Castle Reifenstein. Dating to the 12th century, Reifenstein is one of the most valuable castles in the region. The little hamlet of Trens, with its Gothic church of the Holy Mother of God, is also a popular pilgrimage site.

Our next gastronomic stopover was at the Romantic Hotel and Restaurant Stafler in Mauls. This award-winning gourmet restaurant serves many almost-forgotten South Tyrolean specialties, in addition to creative international classics. The ingredients are fresh from the herb garden on the Stafler family manor, and the wines come from one of the best-stocked wine cellars around. Dining here is traditionally elegant.

You can also visit the lovingly restored Eisacktaler Kramer House nearby with a view of the barn. The adjacent four-star hotel combines medieval roots, historic charm, and modern amenities.

Romantic Hotel and Restaurant Stafler, Mauls 10, 39040, 001 39 0472-771136

The main road continues to Fortezza, a community that took its name from the impressive fortress built nearby by Emperor Francis I between 1833 and 1838. Laboriously constructed of massive granite blocks,

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