obviously fighting off the flu.

Built in the 16th century, the museum was once a working olive oil mill. Francesca explained both the process of making olive oil and its importance in the life and culture of the people in this region. The highlight of the tour? An actual olive oil tasting session, during which Francesca detailed the characteristics of the various types of olive oil, including those that the museum sells and are available via mail order over the Internet.

This day proved to be among the most food intensive of our 10 days touring Abruzzo. Lined up for us was a very special evening at Ristorante Ferrara, also in Bucchianico. Open since 1964 but with culinary traditions stretching back to 1850, Ristorante Ferrara is the kind of place that is almost impossible to locate without help from someone in the know.

Our host for the evening was Claudio D' Alfonso. And to say the evening was a family affair would be a classic understatement. Upstairs in the restaurant, Claudio's mother, Assunta Santaferrara, was busy getting ready for the evening's dinner guests, most who would be arriving fashionably late.

And in the three rooms below the restaurant, we discovered the cantina where Claudio would hold court over a culinary extravaganza--a wine, cheese, and meat tasting that would bring together in one place all of the best that Abruzzo has to offer.

It all began with a selection of wines from Claudio's 13,000-bottle collection (he is an expert sommelier.)