to splurge. We booked it for the two days following our stay on the coast. (I measured the enormous suite during our stay there. At roughly 1,500 square feet, it was larger than my home back in California.)

Like the Castello di Semivicoli, the Castello Chiola is centrally located between the coast and the mountains. After checking in and unpacking, we ventured down to the Il Celliere, the hotel's own four-star restaurant. It is housed in one of the castle's ancient cellars, which we were told once served as the castle stables. The local dishes were up to the standards expected, and the service was outstanding.

Better yet was the buffet breakfast served in a different room on both mornings, much better than even expected. The fruit tarts were among the best I've encountered outside a gourmet bakery. If the hotel had a shortcoming, it was the lack of Internet access in the rooms. Wireless was provided in a small lounge behind the front desk, which is where I was able to write most of part one of this feature, published in the last issue of Automotive Traveler.)

The next day, Susan and I took off on our own to visit the Museum of Olive Oil of CantinArte in Bucchianico. It was raining, and the navigation system in the Alfa Romeo MiTo directed us down several dead ends. Owner Francesca Di Nisio was exceptionally gracious considering we arrived almost an hour late for our private tour on a day when she was