While Granada extends a warm welcome to visitors wandering its streets by day, it is after dark that the city truly sparkles. The transformation to vibrant metropolis begins at nightfall, as the streets begin to teem and restaurants and tapas bars fill quickly. Weekend or weeknight, residents and tourists set out in droves to have a good time.

I headed for Cuevas Los Tarantos, a traditional flamenco club in the historic neighborhood of Sacromonte. The manager, Antonio, filled me in on the history of this energetic art form that combines singing, dancing, guitar, and las palmas --those distinctive handclaps. Born here some 500 years ago, the flamenco tradition is kept alive in local clubs. The show at the Cuevas Los Tarantos was excellent. Afterwards, I retired to the Hotel M.A. Nazaries, five-star lodgings on the southern edge of town, and comfortably bedded down for the night.