A14 turned south, and we followed the Adriatic coast to our left. Traffic was heavy, and we didn't arrive in Pescara until after 8:00 p.m. We were met by Leonardo, whom we followed to the Villa Danilo for our first two nights in Abruzzo. Recently built (2008) and operated by the Sciulli family, it exudes a charm and elegance that belies its modest rate of less than 100 euros per night for a double with breakfast.

Sidebar: The Legend of Bruno Sammartino

For those of you familiar with professional wrestling in the United States, the name Bruno Sammartino needs no introduction. At the time of our stay at the Villa Danilo, Mr. Sammartino was also a guest while being filmed for a documentary on his life. Hailing from nearby Pizzoferrato, he was hidden from the Germans by his mother during World War Two, while suffering from rheumatic fever. Emigrating to the United States, he became well known as one of the pioneers of professional wrestling.

The following morning, the three of us headed to the countryside above the hotel, first the village of Gamberale. We then headed to Pizzoferrato, the ancestral home of the famous American wrestler Bruno Sammartino (who was coincidentally also a guest at the Villa Danilo--see sidebar).

This part of Italy is known for its black and white truffles, which embellish many regional dishes. Yet Leonardo chose this route for another reason. As on our previous visit, he wanted us to see the more remote portions of the region. Even more importantly, we were both scouting roads for the Automotive Traveler vintage sports car tour scheduled for next spring.

Our next stop was the picturesque hamlet of Pacentro, which is some-what well known as the birthplace of Madonna's paternal grandparents. The pop star has reportedly been invited several times to visit her ancestral home. Thus far, she has not fit it into her busy schedule, much to