disappointing since you don't see water--just shops, hotels, and flat, scrubby ground. The longest key at 30 miles from end to end, it is now famous for diving. The John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary lie offshore.

Islamorada Key comes next, a fisherman's dream. Boaters arise early for deep-sea fishing or backwater excursions.

Marathon Key follows, originally named Vaca (cow) by Spanish settlers for the many manatee found offshore. It was renamed Marathon by the men building the railroad that required the lengthy bridge. The water shimmering a beautiful blue-green around you and the many bridge crossings impart a tropical feel to the area.

Crossing Big Pine Key calls for slowing to 45 (35 at night). Key deer, small endangered white-tailed creatures, live here. Large fences erected at a few million dollars of taxpayer expense help protect animals and cars. I didn't see any deer.

U.S. 1 finally ends in Key West, also known as the Conch Republic. My husband Jay, who acted as my chauffeur, was thrilled to see the official end of U.S. Route 1... Mile Marker Zero.

We dropped our luggage at the historic Cypress House. Built by ship-builders in 1888, this Grand Conch mansion has been called one of the purest examples of Bahamian architecture in Key West. Its weathered-cypress exterior and airy interior oozes with island charm.

Strolling to the Conch Republic Seafood Restaurant for a late lunch, we met Carol Shaughnessy, a resident for the last 30 years. As we ate, she told us about the infamous Conch Republic rebellion.

Back in the 1970s, pot smuggling had apparently become a source of income for some islanders. So the U.S. Border Patrol decided to set up a roadblock at Florida City, causing a 17-mile backup on the only road in and out of The Keys.

"Outraged by being treated as foreigners, we, the residents, formed the Conch Republic and declared war," Carol says. "We intended to use stale Cuban bread as ammunition. But, half an hour later we surrendered, and demanded a billion dollars in foreign aid. We're still waiting."

An embarrassed Border Patrol

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