coast road, stopping (at Leonardo's suggestion) for gelato at Copa de Dora in San Vito Marina. Little argument from me that Copa de Dora offers among the best gelato in the region. The place opened in 1940 when Europe was engulfed in World War Two. Those dark days of history couldn't help but come to mind as I walked along the beach with a cup of chocolate gelato.

On our second day based out of I Trabocchi, we headed inland. The weather was spectacular. Our destination? Semivicoli and the Castello Di Semivicoli, an upscale former baron's lodge from the end of the 17th century. The Castello now houses 10 guest rooms and a spectacular suite with 360-degree views of the Abruzzo countryside. From the rooftop suite, it's possible to view not only Majella Mount 20 kilometers away but the sparkling blue of the Adriatic Sea. With its cool waters only a 20-minute drive away, the Castello is almost a perfect vacation getaway.

On our previous trip to Abruzzo, Leonardo and his partner Nicky Pellicciotta introduced us to Gianni Masciarelli and his wife Marina Cvetic. They hosted a wine-tasting session at Castello Di Semivicoli when the hotel renovations were in progress. Masciarelli, the region's leading producer of fine wines, is behind the restoration of Castello Di Semivicoli. Sadly, just after that visit, Gianni