point of Old Town is the Plaza del los Naranjos. The square dates to 1485, the year Marbella was re-conquered from the Moors. Today, it's the place locals spend part of their days relaxing, listening to the trickling waters of the 17th-century fountain and taking in the sweet aroma of the naranjos, the orange trees lining the square. More than once did I park myself at Gran Plaza Restaurante, a pleasant outdoor dining establishment where I could enjoy a tapas lunch and a table-side view of life strolling by. My week in Marbella was spent doing exactly what I love to do: hanging out, enjoying life.

I'm sure I missed a few excellent "tourist" excursions, but my trip wasn't about hopping on the next tour bus to wherever. I wasn't here to duplicate If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium, the 1969 comedy about a nine-country, 18-day whirlwind bus tour of Europe. Not my style. I was here to become part of each town and enjoy the company of as many of the locals willing to speak with me.

As my trip drew to a close, I reflected on the three wonderful towns I'd immersed myself in the last three weeks. Although each brought its share of surprises, Marbella was perhaps the most unexpected treat.

Sidebar: Of Pegasos and Picassos

It would be remiss of me not to mention the splendid city of Málaga. After all, my adventures here began at the Málaga Costa del Sol Airport--and it was here I discovered a world-class automotive collection, the Museo Automovilístico Málaga. Housed in the wing of an architecturally striking former tobacco factory, the museum's 90-plus vehicles are displayed in rich historical context. The curators incorporated design elements that range from each era's fashion styles to cultural references.

The second largest city in its province, Málaga is home to nearly 600,000 inhabitants. Ancient Phoenician, Roman, and Arab walls remain standing in parts of the city.

More recent beautification efforts are turning Málaga into a tourist destination rather than just a transition point for vacation spots beyond. (Art historians and fans of Málaga's most famous native son have always made the city, with its Museo Picasso Málaga, an end in itself.) Traffic restrictions around the city have created inviting pedestrian malls, such as the gleaming Calle Larios with its endless shopping. Town squares welcome the weary walkers with outdoor cafes and tapas bars, as I learned during my one day spent exploring the city on foot.