than a run-of-the-mill chain motel near the airport.

Day Three: Tulsa, Oklahoma to Amarillo, Texas (380 miles)

The day began with breakfast at Tally's Good Food Cafe. The portions are huge, and the hometown atmosphere authentic. Then it was on to the Rock Cafe in Stroud, where we met Dawn Welsh, the inspiration for the Sally Carrera character from the movie Cars.

Farther west in Davenport, we spotted a building with more than a dozen Mustangs parked around back. Pulling over, we found three Shelbys inside--including a 1969 powered by a 4.6-liter supercharged V8 running an independent rear suspension and painted by custom-car legend Gene Winfield. Dubbed the GT690GW, it's said to be the first of what will be a series of 20 similar cars.

Crossing into Texas in late afternoon, the mercury was approaching 100 degrees. We landed in Shamrock, home of the U Drop Inn. Built in 1936, this art-deco gas station and cafe is one Route 66 landmark that won't be disappearing anytime soon. It recently received a $1.7-million federal restoration grant.

We continued to McLean, which was like driving into a ghost town. Despite an early preservation effort, it's been ravaged by vandalism. McLean is a perfect example of what's happened to dozens of once-vibrant Route 66 towns bypassed by the Interstates.