a frozen-custard emporium on Chippewa Street that's been a Route 66 institution since 1941. General manager Travis Dillon treated us to our choice of frozen confections. We tanked up at a pristine 1950s-style Sinclair station. Also on Chippewa Street, it's been run by the Weisehan brothers for the past 55 years.

Next stop after St. Louis was Devil's Elbow, a stretch of Route 66 I've missed on four previous drives. Newer roads have bypassed the two-lane bridge over Big Piney River twice. In 1943, a four-lane section of Route 66 was built to accommodate military traffic from nearby Fort Leonard Wood. The 1970s brought the opening of Interstate 44.

At the Elbow Inn, we indulged in BBQ ribs and brisket as Jann took stock of the hundreds of bras hanging from the ceiling. She declined to add to the collection.

We arrived in Tulsa just as the famous Metro Diner was closing for the night. Sad to say, the University of Tulsa has purchased the property, and the diner is slated for destruction. It's not the first time we learned about the demise of yet another beloved Route 66 landmark.

If you're seeking traditional lodging in Tulsa, try the Desert Hills Motel. Its rooms are spotless, close to period correct, and the place is way more fun to stay in