lobby. Located to the north is the Historic Wing with its front-facing porches and rocking chairs. Our room afforded every modern luxury you'd expect--plus walking sticks, provided just so guests are ready for whatever outdoor activity comes their way.

Other than civilized relaxation on the porch, the resort's most obvious activity is golf. Originally designed by Spencer Oldham, the 18-hole course opened in 1895. Redesigned twice by renowned architects A.W. Tillinghast (1912) and Donald Ross (1923), the course was renovated in recent years by noted restorer Ron Forse. The challenging links lie in the valley and are crossed by Shober's Run as the fairways roll up and down numerous hills.

Walking 18 holes chasing a little white ball isn't my cup of tea, so we opted for getting our exercise on the property's extensive hiking trails (which lure cross-country skiers come winter). Four paths take you through a considerable portion of the 2,200 acres surrounding the resort. The beginner-level Limestone Trail is the shortest, and the Naugle's Mill Trail is about a mile long. Those seeking more of a challenge should start on the Springs Trail. Circling about two miles up Evitt's Mountain, it marks the bottom half of the figure-eight route