end, the hotel stretches almost a quarter mile.

Just as you'd expect at a grand resort like this, a valet meets your car. Herding our chattering group up the stairs and into the wide lobby, my wife and I gazed around at the beautiful room, with its roaring fireplace and ample seating. Preparations for afternoon tea were under way, just as they would have been a century ago. The kids, of course, are fascinated with the self-playing grand piano. In an adjacent lounge, guests play checkers, assemble jigsaw puzzles, and read from the many books found in the hotel library.

The front windows offer a romantic sign of the hotel's grand history. Newlywed brides would show off their diamond rings by etching their names into the glass. During the restoration, these priceless windows were retained, with names such as "Mr Trishe" and "Mrs Jackson" still visible scrawled in the panes.

Guest rooms--215 of them--are divided between the Spa Wing and the Historic Wing. The Spa Wing was built during the hotel's most recent renovation and stretches south of the