If you've read the earlier installments in this series (the trip-planning stage or my week in Nerja), you know my usual M.O. involves heading into town and hooking up with a few folks willing to help this hapless transient live like a local. Accordingly, on my first day in La Herradura, I wandered into Café Music Pub Califa, a local bar situated directly on the beautiful Bay of La Herradura. As luck had it, Mauro the owner spoke excellent English and was willing to help me with my quest.

More luck came later that day as I drifted next door into Café Bar Califa, where Lino and Bele`n treated me like family. Both places had the internet service I required--and friendly patrons who didn't mind talking to me. I now had my new "special ops" headquarters, a local haunt where I could sit back, take in the essence of the town, and ply my trade.

Not having had time to pick up groceries, I ventured out for breakfast early Sunday morning. Bad idea. Almost nothing here opens until at least nine with the exception of a bakery or two. La Herradura also holds onto the Spanish tradition of siesta, with many shops closing from two in the afternoon until five. Fortunately, most restaurants don't close for siesta, and