The fortress is self-guiding, but I suggest taking the time to watch the movie. Although it caters to kids, it does make a good introduction for those of us weak on Irish history. Among other historical tidbits, I learned that John de Courcy built the castle and that King John stayed here when he visited Ireland in 1210.

Sure enough, during my tour I discovered a life-size mannequin of King John hidden off in a corner garderobe--a medieval toilet. How I wish I had taken a photo of John on the john! As silly as it seemed at the time, it has become one of those details I most remember.

Leaving Carrickfergus Castle and heading north, we cruised through a patchwork quilt of a landscape, stitched from every hue and vibrancy of the color green. I had to resist the urge to take photos at each bend in the road.

We did pull over at the village of Glenarm to enjoy the view of Slemish Mountain, where St. Patrick is said to have tended livestock in the fifth century. If time permits, climb the mountain yourself, as crowds of pilgrims do every year on St. Patrick's Day. The 1.5-kilometer trek takes about an hour. Wear appropriate walking shoes as the path is steep and rocky and sunny skies can quickly turn to rain bursts.

Afterwards, stop in Carnlough, home to a beautiful harbor and marina, and a number of charming pubs and bakeries, for a bit of refreshment as we did.

Back on A-2, pass Glenariff to Cushendall and turn left at the red sandstone Curfew Tower built to "imprison idlers and rioters." A pleasant side trip at this point is to head five miles inland to Glenariff Forest Park, home to wildflower meadows, stately groves, and waterfalls, plus enough trails of varying lengths for almost anyone ready to leave the car and stretch those legs.

Looking out over the water, we could see the windswept and treeless Rathlin Island, a bird sanctuary. Kittiwakes, puffins, razorbills and other seabirds by the tens of thousands await those who arrive on Rathlin by