Traveler's Richard Truesdell and me. Since the condo's internet service had a narrow bandwidth, it couldn't handle the volume of high-resolution photos I shipped to Richard almost daily. Antonio's place came to the rescue time and time again.

Each new day more brought blue skies, sunshine, and warm weather, pleasant enough for shorts and a casual shirt. My mornings entailed a brisk walk into town to grab some breakfast and visit the Balco'n de Europa, Nerja's lovely promenade extending into the Mediterranean and serving as a focal point of the city. Once the location of an ancient Muslim castle destroyed during the Peninsular War, Balco'n de Europa is a favorite local hangout.

I'm convinced the Spanish know how to live, particularly when it involves food and drink. Having a cup of coffee isn't simply a matter of gulping down your morning caffeine fix. It is an event. Find a café with an outdoor table and a great view, then order up. The Spanish never rush their drinking or dining. A gathering for coffee is likely to last an hour or more. Dinners, rarely starting before nine, may take two hours or more. The Spanish feel no need to schedule, to request cardboard to-go cups or food boxes. The population has learned to savor each and every moment of life.

Tapas bars and fine restaurants abound. On a tip, I ventured into Meson de Antonio, an excellent tapas bar and restaurant on Calle Diputacio'n. Owner Miguel Narvacz Ajimenez welcomed me with some delectable tapas and friendly conversation. I observed how he worked every table, greeting the patrons with a handshake and hello. I could tell he loves what he does, and the quality of his food demonstrates it.

Sidebar: Vantage Point: Home for a Week

Visiting the Costa del Sol for a holiday one year, we were fortunate to find ourselves staying in the penthouse of Edificio El Tuhillo. To our amazement, Nerja had none of the high-rise buildings that blight much of the coastline. Our four children were teenagers, and our family fell in love with the Spanish architecture, the apartment's size, and the you-can-see-forever view of the Mediterranean.

The proximity to both the middle of this small town and Burriana Beach, a scenic short walk, made the location special. The town was so safe we permitted our teenagers to stay out half the night, which they thought was the greatest! I recall standing in the garden area the first time, declaring, "It's the most beautiful view I've ever seen."

Our enthusiasm was so great we came to be owners of Apartment I-3, Portal 14. As time passed and the kids grew, we had fewer opportunities to stay there as a family. We began to rent it out. We've had clients returning for more than 10 years. We've seen children grow up and return with their own friends.

Each time I arrive, I find myself taking photos of the view. The Mediterranean and the mountains are that spectacular. One businessman said he hadn't left the balcony for the entire week.

Among my favorite memories of Nerja are strolling the restaurant area, reading the menu del dia in front of Spanish homes turned into restaurants, outdoor dining at ten, 11, even midnight. With the influx of northern visitors, restaurants now serve earlier, but the fun part is that you don't even think of eating until way past our normal dinner hour. Then there's Burriana Beach, the mecca for beach activities and dining on the sand. It must be world famous by now... Ayo still stirs his paellas that are so big he needs a small shovel.--Christine Marcus