a number of its vehicles were originally looted by the Red Army during the occupation of Germany following the Second World War. Among them was an ultra-rare prewar Audi V-16 Silver Arrow racecar (which was eventually swapped for a re-creation with Audi, whose team restored the original vehicle and added it to its permanent collection).

Other exhibits center on limousines owned or used by Soviet dictators--Joseph Stalin's Packard-like ZIS and Leonid Brezhnev's Rolls Royce, which he smashed in a Moscow accident. The museum display includes a life-like wax figure slumped at the steering wheel.

My home for the night was the Park Hotel Riga, part of the German-based Maritim chain. This modern hotel has all the expected amenities, including an extensive on-site spa and reliable Internet access, and is located next to a green belt within walking distance of the city center and a wide selection of restaurants--a great home base for exploring the city's diverse architecture and its museums. At less than $100 (current price), including breakfast, the hotel will not tax your travel budget.

If you want a more traditional hotel experience in Riga, I can suggest the four-star, family-owned Metropole Hotel, built in 1871 and also in the historic Old Town.

After a day exploring Riga, I headed north along the coastal road, E67, also known as the Via Baltica. It was along the Via Baltica that I crossed into Estonia, whose rural atmosphere I wanted to experience firsthand as a contrast to the larger cities. For the night, I checked in to the Scandinavian-influenced Lepanina Hotel right on the shoreline. My dinner, smoked fish and a local pasta, was delicious. Even though it was autumn, it was possible to enjoy the meal on the patio.

In the Soviet era, these pristine beaches with their pine-forest backdrop were a favored destination for the politically powerful. Today, wealthy Russian oligarchs favor trendier locations, leaving regular vacationers a wonderful place to relax. Summer cottages offer an attractive alternative to staying in the capital city of Tallinn three hours away, as well as a jumping-off point for exploring the interior of Estonia to the east.

Unfortunately, I had no time to continue my automotive travels in that direction. My return flight home necessitated catching an overnight ferry from Tallinn back to Stockholm.

On the drive north, I caught sight of a signpost that read "Ruut 66." Of course, I had to see where it led. As expected,