Sidebar: What We Missed: The Death Valley National Park Loop

Forced to cut three days from our original itinerary, we had to eliminate the 500-mile loop north from Ontario International Airport (A) to Death Valley National Park and a one-night stay at the historic Furnace Creek Resort (C). Furnace Creek features a Perry Dye-designed golf course, 216 feet below sea level. As the ball doesn't travel too far in Death Valley, Furnace Creek ranks as one of the 50 toughest courses in the United States. And yes, there are water hazards.

While most GPS units will direct you up I-15 towards Las Vegas, I recommend heading north on U.S. 395 in the direction of Ridgecrest instead. Once you're en route, set Trona, California (B) as a waypoint, and top off your rig there. Gas and diesel are $1.50/gallon cheaper there than filling up at one of the two service stations within the boundaries of Death Valley National Park.

The lowest point in the Western Hemisphere is Badwater Basin (D), 282 feet below sea level. Heading south, stop in Shoshone at the Crowbar Café (E) for the best prime rib between L.A. and Las Vegas. The route south passes through Amboy (F) and Roy's, a Route 66 landmark, as well as Joshua Tree National Park (G) before you arrive at the Emerald Desert RV Resort (H).

From Death Valley, we'd head south to Palm Springs, Escondido, and San Diego, staying at three different RV parks operated by Sunland RV Resorts. Unfortunately, last-minute scheduling conflicts eliminated the first two days' camping in Death Valley and, with Susan's flight from the East Coast ending up delayed, we were forced to change our plans. (One of the great advantages of RV travel is the flexibility.)

So, instead of heading north up U.S. 395, we opted to drive east on I-10 and stay one night in Beaumont at the family-owned-and-operated Country Hills RV Park. On-site managers Jamie and Rick Brower threw out the red carpet for us despite a late arrival. (We had stopped to eat at The Farmhouse on the east side of Beaumont. Taking advantage of all-you-can-eat, fall-off-the-bone beef ribs at $15.99, we were set with enough leftovers for lunch the next day.)

The park's rustic setting in the foothills overlooking Beaumont made for a beautiful sunrise. While giving me a tour that morning, Rick pointed out a pair of mating hawks and noted that they have their own resident mountain lion, as well as coyotes and rattlesnakes. Small domestic animals often serve as tasty appetizers for the area's predators.

While our RV rental came equipped with such essentials as bed linens, dishes, utensils, and pots and pans, we did need to pick up a few things: laundry detergent, hangers, plastic bowls for food storage. Where to go?